Friday, November 18, 2005
The Terminal
posted by: bethlehembloggers at 9:28 PM

LETTER FROM BETHLEHEM (71)

Toine van Teeffelen

November 16, 2005

THE TERMINAL

On this Palestinian Independence Day I decide to take a break and go and visit the zoo in Jerusalem together with the children. Mary, who of course cannot join because she doesn’t have a permit or a foreign passport-with-a-three-month visa as I do, puts fruits in the bag for me and for Jara and Tamer. Should we put a knife in the bag, to cut the fruits? Better not to have an iron knife, but a plastic one, we think, because the soldiers at the checkpoint may become suspicious. I make a quick check on the Internet to see whether there are problems to be expected on the road. The Bethlehem taxi driver tells us that today the new terminal is in use. We approach not a checkpoint but rather something that resembles an international border. The people had heard that it would open one of these days. Ironically it happened on Independence Day. For sure no coincidence. As if the message is: If you want to have your independence, we will be happy to grant you that by establishing an international border and lock you up.

I count four inspection moments. First, at the gate in the Wall, where a soldier checks whether I have a passport. I wave it. Then we enter, through iron corridors, into the terminal itself. We pass a glass booth where a soldier quickly checks the passport. A Palestinian woman wants to enter a revolving fence but does not have a tasreeh [permit]. A rather loud-speaking soldier at the other side of the fence refuses her entry. The kids and I pass, somewhat overwhelmed by all the iron and stone around us and by the huge size of the hall. It reminds of Eretz at the Israeli entry to Gaza. Months ago I read in Haaretz about an army representative who stated that the terminal would make it possible for people to wait quietly, without being disturbed by heat or rain, and that toilet facilities would be available. Indeed, we pass by male and female toilets. Everywhere huge signs that people should keep the place clean.


The hall is a combination of iron revolving gates, corridors and high roofs, and big and small signs. We are waiting for some minutes in front of another revolving fence with a red light on top of it. Through the fence we watch a Palestinian trying to understand the Hebrew-spoken orders of a female soldier. She apparently wants him to take his belt off. Or is it his shoes? She speaks through a loudspeaker from behind glass. The loudspeaker speaks very loud, with an echo due to the size of the hall. Like at Eretz, the feeling is that cattle rather than humans are inspected. Although not quite, because of this emphasis upon cleanliness. But modern cattle places are also rather clean, I ponder. How will the place look like after some months?


Another woman links up to the queue. She giggles nervously. Usually people waiting at checkpoints are angry or passive but the iron and technology and size are so overwhelming here that they must primarily feel themselves out of place. Jara starts panicking because we forgot to take the bag with apples and now she thinks that the soldiers will ask us why we are bringing a knife without fruits. The light turns green and we pass the revolving door. The soldier lowers her voice when she sees me and Jara, with Tamer on my arm. I remember that long ago Mary used to try to enter checkpoints with baby Jara on her arm, so as to soften the soldiers’ mood. That now looks an almost romantic past. No way that you could talk yourself here through. I put my things in my bag which is X-rayed. "Don’t bring your hand too close to the bag," the soldier warns. She is perhaps instructed to be strict during this first day of the opening of the terminal. Jara is relieved that the plastic knife stays hidden in the bag. Through the loudspeaker the soldier tells me "Have a nice day," but much too loud. That is the third time to hear this, I count.


Everything is here out of place and out of proportion. We then go to inspection point number four. The passport goes through the glass window and is thoroughly looked upon from all sides. Have a nice day, we hear again, mechanically. Relieved we walk out of the terminal. Jara pulls my arm and whispers in my ear that she sees a soldier doing pee-pee behind a pillar. She giggles and asks why he is doing so. Don’t they learn to go to a toilet?


On the way to the zoo Jara gasps at the greenery alongside the roads. How beautiful it is here, she exclaims. When walking through the zoo, the comparison with the terminal presses itself upon me. The various sections in the zoo are small-scale, human, diverse, and clean. The play garden hosts imaginative stone animals with two heads and other funny features. Animals walk freely in the children’s zoo. You can breath, there is no tension.


When there are some Israelis next to me watching the animals, and Jara and Tamer are shouting in Arabic, I feel a little tensed, as if this is not the right place to talk Arabic loudly. Don’t think stupidly, I tell myself. But this time there are more Arabic-speaking people in the zoo, it seems. The zoo in fact advertises that it is a meeting place for Jews of all different backgrounds as well as for Arabs. That is, Arabs from Jerusalem and Israel. I remember that half a year ago or so I talked with a headmaster of a school in a West Bank village near the Israeli border. Her village is going to be located on the wrong side of the Wall – hemmed in between the Wall and the Green Line. She said that the Israelis had approached the Palestinians to give school classes in the village the opportunity to take the train that runs along that village once a day in order to visit the zoo. A nice offer but, I suppose, intended mainly for propaganda purposes and photo opportunities, so as to show that Palestinian kids affected by the Wall don’t suffer too much. I frankly sympathized with the negative response. Palestinians need rights, not favors.


On the way back from the zoo to the Bethlehem terminal, the Israeli taxi driver says that he cannot put on the meter because the area towards the checkpoint is not within the boundaries of Jerusalem. It’s a trick to get more money. I hear myself arguing that at least according to Israeli law the checkpoint area is very much within the boundaries of Jerusalem, and that he therefore should put on the meter. I feel hopelessly hypocritical; after all, both the zoo and the terminal are on lands of Beit Jala and Bethlehem, that is, West Bank lands, not Jerusalem lands.


Then back home through the terminal. The kids and I now know where to go. I talk a little with the soldiers so as to make the atmosphere less hostile for the children. After going through the Wall gate, I turn around and see a huge painting on the Wall, showing an American lion with dollar signs and oil installations on its skin. It devours a Palestinian lamb. Next day I hear from Palestinians that they were waiting at the new border for 1.5 hour and also that tourist groups were separated from Palestinians. Soon Bethlehem will be enclosed by the Wall on three sides – the north, the south and west – with the desert on the east.

(Photo from Maan Independent News).
318 Comments
Blogger Jameel @ The Muqata
I remember the days before there were any checkpoints, before the Oslo Accords in 1992. Arabs and Jews freely went in and out of Hebron, Bethlehem, Qualquilya.

Its important to take a step back and think about how we ended up in this unfortunate situation.

The "too loud" messages of "Have a nice day" from the soldiers is not their fault. They are behind centimeters of blastproof glass, and aren't always aware of the volume.

I would be more than happy for the "security wall" to disappear. I would also be happy if we didn't need the checkpoints.

Its a shame that terrorism is so prevalent that these immense security measures are needed to prevent Jewish and Arab children from getting blown up at the zoo.
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Anonymous Couldn't help but notice
A friend wrote this to a newspaper, but it seemed very appropriate for you post.

--------------------------------

I read with interest your article on Palestinians, checkpoints and Israel. As an Israeli living in Efrat, one of the Jewish towns mentioned in your article, I felt I personally related to the description of the humiliation, delays, and inconvenience caused by the various checkpoints.

Let me describe my typical day.

Efrat should normally be a 7 minute drive to Jerusalem, yet when I leave for work I have to drive through 2 checkpoints to enter Jerusalem, often sitting in traffic for as long as a half hour, as each car is checked one by one to make sure no Palestinian suicide bombers sneak through.

Before heading to work, I stop off at the post office to get my mail. At the post office, I empty my pockets, walk through a metal detector, and as I invariably beep, I then face the daily humiliation of the pat down (like when you are at the airport), I usually then show my ID – all to make sure that I am not a Palestinian terrorist planning to shoot up everyone inside the building - again.

Having completed that checkpoint I head over to work. Entering the building's parking lot, my car is then thoroughly searched to make sure no bombs are smuggled inside or attached unbeknownst to me (oh, and I show my ID yet again).

Entering the lobby requires that once again I show my ID. If it is a nice guard that knows me, he'll sometimes skip the humiliating pat down if I beep as I walk through the metal detector.

In the evening, if I want to go shopping with my wife and then catch dinner and a movie, the checkpoints and humiliations become nearly unbearable.

Entering the shopping mall parking lot in Talpiot, our car is once again thoroughly checked for bombs, and depending on the day's warning level, I might have to get out of the car and undergo yet another humiliating pat down (and of course show my ID).

Entering the supermarket, once again I empty my pockets, and get the pat down, my wife has the additional humiliation of not just a pat down, but of some stranger rummaging though her pocketbook and seeing what she keeps in there. Once again, to make sure we are not Palestinian terrorists smuggling in weapons to kill innocent Israelis in a public place – yet again.

Having completed our shopping we head to a restaurant, where yet again, we undergo a full body pat down, and to my wife's humiliation yet again, her pocketbook is rummaged through, all to make sure that we are not yet another Palestinian suicide bomber trying to blow up yet another restaurant and all the Jews inside.

Do I need to describe what happens when then head over to the movie theater?

I probably should, because there we are checked 3 times, as they make sure that the previous guard didn't misidentify us at any point.

Luckily, when we head back home there are no spot checks on the road today and even better, the guard at the checkpoint to our town recognizes us, so we go through unhindered.

As he opens the huge metal gate attached to the wall that surrounds my town, which protect us from Palestinian infiltrators, I feel like I'm entering a big prison.

Prison-like or not, usually our town's security fence works. In the past few years, only 3 Palestinian terrorist got through, but thank God they were killed in time before their attacks actually succeeded. Though the truth is, the Palestinian suicide bomber in our supermarket only failed because the trigger to his suicide belt malfunctioned when he pressed it.

So I must say, I do relate to the fact that my Palestinian neighbors must go through so many checkpoints, yet not as many as I go through every day.

Unfortunately, unless the Palestinians unequivocally give up terrorism, both their checkpoints, and my checkpoints are here to stay.

Tomorrow I am renewing my ID card. It's worn out.
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